Conj

Evidence
How do we know what the Anglo-Saxons wore? How can we find out? Through looking at the evidence available from Archaeology, History, Science, Language and Literature. Using the facts discovered we can build up a picture of the clothes an Anglo-Saxon wore.

Fibres	Anglo-Saxon textiles are made up of the following fibres; wool, linen and a small amount of silk. Fibres have been found in graves stuck to the backs of brooches where they have been preserved by the chemicals in the metal. In some cases even the dye used on the cloth and it's weave can be identified scientifically. Archaeological finds such as looms and spindle-weights show that fibres were spun and woven. From studying settlement sites we know that sheep have been farmed since well before Roman times by the number of bones found; and from analysing soil samples that the Flax plant (the stems of which are made into Linen) was common. Silk was brought to this country from as far away as Russia by the Vikings. It is documented in their sagas and in records written by foreign travellers.

Fig. 1 Girdle end with textile from St. John's Cambridge taken from 'Dress in Anglo-Saxon England' by Gale R. Owen-Crocker.

Dyes
From analysing the few scraps of fabric we find preserved it is possible to tell what colour those fabrics were. Such dyes as Madder (red), Woad (blue) and Weld (yellow) have been identified in this way. All of these are plants grew wild and could be harvested by anyone with a little knowledge.

Fashion and Form
These are trickier questions to answer for, as we have implied above, organic matter decays when left in the soil, and only a little is preserved in special circumstances. Fortunately, there have been a few discoveries of complete costumes from varying time period before and after the Dark-Ages. From these outfits we can make a reasoned guess at what was worn. A better idea of the clothes worn can be gained from looking at the written material of the Anglo-Saxons and they produced a fair number of beautiful manuscripts, some of which still survive. The manuscripts contain all sorts of documents from charters to wills and prayer-books. Many of these documents were illustrated so we can actually see what the Anglo-Saxons wore; and from reading the words used to describe the pictures we can start to understand.
	Fig. 2 A scene showing the Nuns of Barking Abbey - London, Lambeth Palace Library MS 200, fol. 68v.
	Metal items such as brooches, belt tags and hooks when identified on remains in graves - can also give us some idea of how clothes were fastened. As to the cut and fit of garments - well, that IS conjecture.
Fig. 3 Dark-Age belt buckle - British Museum.

Their Stories
The year is 980 AD. . .

Leofric
Ealdorman of East-Anglia
(half-brother to King Æthelred)

   Leofric, the son of Æthelwold and Ælfthryth has been Ealdorman for 18 years and getting old. He well remembers the day he took over the Ealdordom on his father's death, and the speculation that followed, when his mother married King Edgar soon after. However, he finds being related to the royal family very beneficial in monetary terms, although it can be quite harrowing emotionally.
   Two years ago, during a short visit with Æthelred, his step-brother Edward (who was then king) mysteriously died. The grief and outrage was tremendous. Leofric's own mother, Ælfthryth was said to have had something to do with it simply because Æthelred was her son and was then made king. Ridiculous! Mind you, Æthelred has been king for a year now and the omens aren't good.
   There was a rumour of 'a bloody cloud, the likeness of fire' seen in the sky, and so far this year Southampton, Thanet and Cheshire have been ravaged by ships from the North, where before there was peace. Leofric hopes the attackers stay away from East Anglia - he doesn't want to have to deal with them.
   Life though, has its ups as well as downs. He remembers when he married Leofflæd, the same year his father died. That was a busy year. He thought the bride was a bit chubby, but everyone said she would grow up into a beautiful woman - and she has. This year, he thinks they might take a leaf out of his mothers book and found a church somewhere, to celebrate the long years they've been together.
   He hopes the future will be brighter.

(details gathered from: 'The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle' translated and collated by Anne Savage; 'Kings and Queens of England & Great Britain' by Eric R. Delderfield; 'A Biographical Dictionary of Dark-Age Britain' by Ann Williams, Alfred P Smyth and D P Kirby.)

Leofflæd
Wife of Ealdorman Leofric

   Leofflæd's story begins with her marriage to Ealdorman Leofric. She remembers being a bit afraid of him as he seemed very 'rough' (well she was only ten years old). Her mother, however immediately noticed his lovely smile and persuaded her that all would be well and that she may grow to love him. Well, that advice has certainly proved correct. Leofflæd now has trouble believing herself that she didn't really like Leofric to begin with.
   Leofflæd's mother, the source of that advice, was very good with people - treating their hurts and ministering to their souls, as good nuns are supposed to do. Not such a good nun when she met Leofflæd 's father, though! When they met, he was on an errand from his father, who was a merchant. He's since become a builder of houses and now has people working for him.
   That's how Leofflæd learned her letters, from her mother and father. It has helped her a lot in drawing up the documents required when running her husbands household in his absence. She is still amazed at how much work there is to do. She doesn't enjoy listening to the daily complaints or having to go out and inspect fields or animals, etc., but she does enjoy entertaining the many visitors her husband gets, particularly the merchants.
   Sadly Leofflæd has no children yet and hopes that her husband agrees to the founding of a church for which she hopes God will look favourably upon her and bless her womb.

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