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A rich and luxurious costume, decorated with embroidery and dyed exotically.
Under-tunic

White linen, knee length long sleeved (U) with round slit neck and ties; slit at sides.

Tunic
Red linen, calf length (T) with over long sleeves wrinkling at wrist; round neck with slit. Green linen bands at neck cuff & hem; neck & cuffs embroidered in wool.
Cloak

Square (C) orange wool lined with brown wool, fastened on right shoulder with brooch; ankle length.

Trousers
Blue linen (T) with straight legs and drawstring fastening
Leg-bindings

Cream wool strips of fabric wound tightly round the leg from ankle to knee.

Boots

Flat-soled leather (B); ankle high with toggle fastening.

Hair

Short cropped hair.

Hat

Orange wool 'smurf' (H), with brown wool band embroidered in orange wool thread.

Accessories

Bone cross. Seax (knife) in decorated leather sheath hung on leather belt. Bronze disc brooch.

Glenn Wilkin - Anglo-Saxon Thegn costume © 2000
Black text - items in the picture; Red text italic - items not made; Pink text - items not visible; Green text - items made but not in the picture; Blue text - correct item, which is different from the one in the picture.



Notes
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Under-tunic
   Glenn's undertunic was made for him by his mum. It is fine linen and the shape is based on a simple 'T'. The body of the tunic is knee-length, with slits at the sides. The sleeves are wrist length and fairly tight and the neck is round with a slit at the front which is fastened by fabric ties.

Tunic
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   This tunic is also based on the 'T' shape, but has 'gores' or extra triangles of fabric sewn into the skirt to make it flare. It is slightly longer than knee-length and the sleeves are also slightly longer than wrist-length and pushed back to wrinkle up the arm. The neckline is similar to the under-tunic, but has a decorative brooch to fasten the slit.
   The tunic is made of red linen and is decorated with bands of contrastingly coloured fabric of pale green linen. These bands are embroidered at neck and cuff, with stylised plant forms and a favourite symbol of the Anglo-Saxons - the Christian cross. The embroidery is executed in yellow, green, mauve and red wool threads. (Glenn did the embroidery on this himself.)

Cloak
   Glenn's cloak is a simple square/rectangle of fabric. Well, it's two layers of fabric - one of brown (wool obtained from the sheep and spun, then woven with no colouring) and orange, which could have been made by double dyeing with yellow, then red. There is no evidence for double layer cloaks until the medieval period - but they are certainly warm. There is evidence of single layer cloaks that were very large being folded double when worn. The edges of the cloak are blanket stitched in brown wool.

Trousers

   They are made of a pale blue soft linen in a style very similar to modern pyjama trousers. They have a straight, slightly tapered leg and a drawstring waist. I have used a piece of matte piping cord for the drawstring.

Leg-bindings
   These are simple strips of fabric wound round the lower leg. Glenn's are of undyed wool, with and hem turned under along both edges. One end has been shaped into two prongs, so that they can be tied around the leg. (See the Leg-bindings guide.)

Boots

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   These boots are made from stiff leather. They are flat-soled, round toed and are slightly higher than ankle-height. Glenn made them himself, with leather purchased from a handbag factory shop and real leather soles from a local shoe shop. They fasten with a simple wooden toggle. The sole has been given extra grip by the addition of some strips of leather sewn across. (He found that he was always slipping over while fighting in them.)

Hair
   Glenn has the most amazing hair! It doesn't lend itself to an Anglo-Saxon style very well, which should be short, but I refuse to let him cut it.

Hat
   The hat is an unusual style, called a Phrygian hat. I call it a 'smurf' hat because it looks very similar to such. Glenn's is made of the same wool as his cloak - the main part in the orange and the band in the brown. He has also embroidered this with stitching in the orange. (See Hats guide.)

Accessories
   Bone cross - the Anglo-Saxons as mentioned were by this time mostly Christian and would have worn a symbol of such. This one is very simple, being carved from bone and undecorated.
   Leather belt - the belt is undecorated, but has a metal buckle and decorated bone tag end.
   Seax - this typical Anglo-Saxon knife has a bone handle and is kept in a decorated leather sheath.
   The disc brooch was typical of the Late Saxon period, this one is decorated with raised lobes and cut-out areas.

 

© Rosie Wilkin 2003
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