HedebyCap

General		Back to top
The fragment of cloth recovered from the upper layers in a well, has been reasonably identified as part of a cap. The preserved section measures 15cm x 32cms. The cap was probably in use for a long time, as the fragment is very worn on both sides.

Construction	Back to top
	The fragment consists of two pieces (a and b) linked by a seam. The cut edges along the seam may have been notched. The sewn edge of part (a) is cut in curve form, part (b) joins to the curvature. Together they form a pattern which consists of a rounded crown part with straight sides.
	The seam (1) joining the two parts is sewn with a 2-ply thread, zS spun. Each cut edge of fabric is folded once and sewn down with over-cast stitch. The folded edges are then sewn together with over cast stitch. The stitches are between 2-4mm long and 3-4mm apart. (below)
	(The arrowed lines on the diagram indicate the straight grain of the fabric.)

Fabric		Back to top
It is a 2/2 twill wool with a thread count of 18 warp and 8 weft threads per cm, which has been fulled or fluffed up, and into which pile fibres have been sewn. There is evidence that the wool was dyed. Warp threads are z spun in 3 ply and between 0.4 and 0.7 mm thick. Weft threads are s spun in 2 ply and between 0.7 and 1mm thick. It is classified as a 'very fine' fabric. (below left; scale 3:1)
	The pile fibres are a long, dark animal hair and have been sewn-in with a needle no more than 6 threads apart. Two weft threads are picked up with the needle and the pile fibres taken through the cloth , the pile fibres are then taken over and under 1 or both of these same weft threads and out of the same side of the fabric to leave a tail (a and b - right). The overall effect would have been to make the fabric look like fur.

Reference	Back to top
All information in this article is taken from the Hedeby archaeology report by Inga Hagg (see Books).

© Rosie Wilkin 2008

Return to 'C & T Guides ' Menu