The Tunic

   Tunics varied in length from reasonably short (covering the bum/thighs) to very long (ground-length). The longer tunics appear in the later period and seem to be worn by men of rank - possibly a ceremonial costume. I have given instructions here for a knee-length tunic, which is about average (For a longer tunic - make as the dress).
   The sleeves of the tunic are at least wrist length. Some tunics show a series of lines at the wrist which has been suggested could be pleating. The common view (in re-enactment circles) is that the sleeves were made over-long and then pushed back up to wrinkle around the wrist. Practical experience shows that these types of sleeve are warmer than wider versions. All sleeves shown seem to be close-fitting.
   The neckline of the tunic can be either round (wide enough for the head to go through), or round with a slit (wide enough for the neck - the slit allowing the head to go through).
   The skirts of tunics also seem to be fairly wide as evidenced by the wrinkles in them. This could be acheived by cutting the skirt in one with the side edges angled out - or more practically (given the loom sizes mentioned previously) adding gussets.

 

   This is the fabric layout and I shall be describing my favourite way of making a tunic. If you have any sewing/dressmaking skills yourself, please do try it your own way. As you can see from the layout they liked to use every available inch of fabric - even the offcuts made belts or patches, etc.
   I buy fabric which is 60 inches/150 cm wide. This means that the maximum chest measurement you can get out of this fabric is 48 inches/120 cm. (I think most people should be covered by this, though.) What you would have to do is open out the fabric and cut the body panels end to end, which means you would need roughly twice the amount of fabric.

 

Body
Cutting out the Body Pieces
  • Fold your fabric lengthways (so the two selvedge edges are together) and lay it on a flat surface.
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your knape to knee measurement (E).
  • With scissors cut this length along the red line.
  • Take your chest measurement (A), half it and add on 6 inches/15cm.
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark this measurement along each short edge.
Decide which type of neckline you like; round or round with a slit.
1. Round:
  • Find a saucepan lid that about matches your head circumference (Q).
  • Open out the fabric and place it end to end with a slight overlap of about 1 inch/2.5cm
  • Place your saucepan lid over the overlap and centre it between the long edges. It needs to be slightly further towards one end to make the cut-out deeper at the front than the back.
  • Cut out this shape (the red circle).

2. Round with a slit:

  • Find a saucepan that about matches your neck circumference (H).
  • Open out the fabric and place it end to end with a slight overlap of about 1 inch/2.5cm
  • Place your saucepan lid over the overlap and centre it between the long edges. It needs to be slightly further towards one end to make the cut-out deeper at the front than the back.
  • Cut out this shape (the red circle).
  • Fold the front of the tunic in half and make a little cut in the fabric at the fold.

 

Sleeves
Cutting out the Sleeve Pieces

Decide whether you want wrinkled sleeves or plain straight ones. There are two ways of cutting sleeves; the first is if your arms are longer than half the width of your fabric (and you want wrinkled sleeves), the second is if you have short arms (or want plain straight sleeves).

1. Long arms or wrinkled sleeves:
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your bicep measurement (K).
  • Cut this length along the red line.
  • Then mark the same again and cut again.
  • Open out both pieces of fabric and place them together.
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your shoulder to wrist measurement (I) and your shoulder to elbow measurement (J).
  • From where your shoulder to wrist measurement ends add on another 6 inches/15 cm (this will form the wrinkle).
  • Cut this length along the red line.
2. Short arms or plain straight sleeves:
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your bicep measurement (K).
  • Cut this length along the red line.
  • With the fabric still folded cut along the fold.
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your shoulder to wrist measurement (I) and your shoulder to elbow measurement (J).
  • Cut this length along the red line.
3. For each type of sleeve:
  • Fold each sleeve in half lengthways.
  • On one end of the folded sleeve piece mark a little over half your hand measurement (L).
  • From this point cut along the red line to your previously marked elbow point (use your shoulder to elbow measurement from the other end).
  • (For the long sleeve or wrinkled sleeve the angle of the red line will be shallower).

 

Gussets
Under-Arm Gussets

Out of the off-cuts of fabric from the sleeves make two squares of fabric about 6 inches/15cm each side.

Skirt Gussets  
Decide how many gussets you want. Two is the easiest option as these just pop into the side seams. Four is a bit trickier as you have to slit the front and back of the body pieces - and a bit posher.
  • Take the remaining fabric and open it out and lay it on a flat surface.
  • Cut the piece in half from short end to short end (and in half again if four gussets are required).
  • Fold each piece in half.
  • With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along from the top folded corner diagonally to the bottom cut corner, your waist to knee measurement (G).
  • Cut along the red line.
  • Do the same for the remaining gusset pieces.

 

Sewing the Pieces Together
Sewing the Body Pieces
  • Place the front and back pieces together lining up the neck edge.
  • Stitch the two pieces together across the shoulders.
  • Check the fit of the head hole - enlarging if necessary.
Sewing the Under-arm Gusset to the Sleeve
  • Take a sleeve piece and open it out and lay it on a flat surface.
  • Place a gussett piece at one corner and stitch together.
  • Do the same again for the other sleeve piece.
Sewing the Skirt Gussets to the Body
  • Open out the front and back body pieces and lay on a flat surface.
  • Make sure that the 'right-side' is uppermost.
  • Open out a gusset piece and lay the diagonal edge of the triangle on one side of the body, with the base of the triangle level with the base of the tunic.
  • Stitch a gusset onto each body piece as shown.
  • Check all seam edges are on the same side of the fabric!
Sewing the Sleeves to the Body
  • Measure the sleeve 'head' (the widest end) and mark half this on each sleeve piece.
  • Match the centre point of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the body and make sure 'right-sides' are together.
  • Stitch the sleeve piece to the body piece.
  • Do the same for the other sleeve on the other side of the body.
  • Check all seam edges are on the same side of the fabric!
Sewing the Body Together
  • Open out the tunic and open out all panels.
  • Fold the tunic in half 'right-sides' together - all seam edges should be on the outside.
  • Stitch the tunic together along the side edges. This may be a bit tricky at the under-arm gusset as you have to fold it diagonally. When you get to this point, stop the machine and with the needle still in the fabric lift the foot and re-arrange the fabric as you need.

 

Finishing
   Now all the seams are finished, you can show off your hand sewing on the hems - that is if you haven't sewn the whole thing by hand already in which case have a gold star!
   Unless you are going to use the tunic to demonstrate Anglo-Saxon sewing techniques to the general public at events, I see no reason why you shouldn't use a machine on any seam that won't show whilst wearing.
   For my hems on linen/cotton mix, I use either a mercerised cotton or crochet cotton (both of which look like linen thread). On wool I use a wool thread.
   To hem my garments I fold the edge over about half a cm and then again about another half cm and stitch down with a running stitch. You can use thread the same colour as the tunic or a different colour - to tart it up a bit - and you can do decorative stitching on the edges as well.
   Ocassionaly the tunic is decorated at hem, cuff and neck - either embroidery, bands of contrasting fabric, or embroidered bands. For embroidery designs see contemporary manuscripts, metal-work, etc.

 

© Rosie Wilkin 2003
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