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| The Tunic | |
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Tunics varied in length
from reasonably short (covering the bum/thighs) to very long (ground-length).
The longer tunics appear in the later period and seem to be worn by men
of rank - possibly a ceremonial costume. I have given instructions here
for a knee-length tunic, which is about average (For a
longer tunic - make as the dress). |
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| This is the fabric layout
and I shall be describing my favourite way of making a tunic. If you have
any sewing/dressmaking skills yourself, please do try it your own way. As
you can see from the layout they liked to use every available inch of fabric
- even the offcuts made belts or patches, etc. I buy fabric which is 60 inches/150 cm wide. This means that the maximum chest measurement you can get out of this fabric is 48 inches/120 cm. (I think most people should be covered by this, though.) What you would have to do is open out the fabric and cut the body panels end to end, which means you would need roughly twice the amount of fabric. |
| Body | |
| Cutting out the Body Pieces | |
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| Decide which type of neckline you like; round or round with a slit. | |
| 1. Round: | |
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2. Round with a slit: |
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| Sleeves | |
| Cutting out the Sleeve Pieces | |
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Decide whether you want wrinkled sleeves or plain straight ones. There are two ways of cutting sleeves; the first is if your arms are longer than half the width of your fabric (and you want wrinkled sleeves), the second is if you have short arms (or want plain straight sleeves). |
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| 1. Long arms or wrinkled sleeves: | |
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| 2. Short arms or plain straight sleeves: | |
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| 3. For each type of sleeve: | |
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| Gussets | |
| Under-Arm Gussets | |
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Out of the off-cuts of fabric from the sleeves make two squares of fabric about 6 inches/15cm each side. |
| Skirt Gussets | |
| Decide how many gussets you want. Two is the easiest option as these just pop into the side seams. Four is a bit trickier as you have to slit the front and back of the body pieces - and a bit posher. | |
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| Sewing the Pieces Together |
| Sewing the Body Pieces | |
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| Sewing the Under-arm Gusset to the Sleeve | |
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| Sewing the Skirt Gussets to the Body | |
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| Sewing the Sleeves to the Body | |
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| Sewing the Body Together | |
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| Finishing |
| Now all the seams are finished,
you can show off your hand sewing on the hems - that is if you haven't sewn
the whole thing by hand already in which case have a gold star! Unless you are going to use the tunic to demonstrate Anglo-Saxon sewing techniques to the general public at events, I see no reason why you shouldn't use a machine on any seam that won't show whilst wearing. For my hems on linen/cotton mix, I use either a mercerised cotton or crochet cotton (both of which look like linen thread). On wool I use a wool thread. To hem my garments I fold the edge over about half a cm and then again about another half cm and stitch down with a running stitch. You can use thread the same colour as the tunic or a different colour - to tart it up a bit - and you can do decorative stitching on the edges as well. Ocassionaly the tunic is decorated at hem, cuff and neck - either embroidery, bands of contrasting fabric, or embroidered bands. For embroidery designs see contemporary manuscripts, metal-work, etc. |
| © Rosie Wilkin 2003 |
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