These are made to the same pattern as the tunic only longer.
   It is evident that in a lot of illustrations two dresses are worn, as sometimes tighter/longer sleeves are visible under wide sleeves and sometimes a second hem is visible at ankle-length under a shorter hem.
   As with the tunic, extra gussets are added to the skirt to give fullness and freedom of movement, and at the under-arm.
   The long sleeves can also be extended and then pushed back like the tunic sleeves (the illustrations show the same lines at the wrist as illustrations of men in tunics). Towards the end of the period straight sleeves begin to get wider at the wrist.
   The neckline of the dresses is very often obscured by the voluminous head-covering, but where they are visible are the same as on the mens tunics, i.e. round or round with a slit.

• Fold your fabric lengthways (so the two selvedge edges are together) and lay it on a flat surface.
• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge your knape to ground measurement (D). (You can shorten this later.)
• With scissors cut this length along the red line.

• Take your bust measurement (A), half it and add on 6 inches/15 cm.
• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark this measurement along each short edge.
• With scissors cut this length along the red line.

• Find a saucepan lid that about matches your head circumference (Q).
• Open out the fabric and place it end to end with a slight overlap of about 1 inch/2.5cm
• Place your saucepan lid over the overlap and centre it between the long edges. It needs to be slightly further towards one end to make the cut-out deeper at the front than the back.
• Cut out this shape (the red circle).

2. Round with a slit:

• Find a saucepan that about matches your neck circumference (H).
• Open out the fabric and place it end to end with a slight overlap of about 1 inch/2.5cm
• Place your saucepan lid over the overlap and centre it between the long edges. It needs to be slightly further towards one end to make the cut-out deeper at the front than the back.
• Cut out this shape (the red circle).
• Fold the front of the dress in half and make a little cut in the fabric at the fold (you will lengthen this later on to make it fit over your head).

   Decide what type of sleeve you want: wrinkled, close-fitting (if one dress is worn), wider if a close-fitting sleeve is worn underneath. There are two ways of cutting sleeves; the first is if your arms are longer than half the width of your fabric (and you want wrinkled sleeves), the second is if you have short arms (or want plain straight sleeves).

• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your bicep measurement (K).
• Cut this length along the red line.
• Then mark the same again and cut again.
• Open out both pieces of fabric and place them together.

• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your shoulder to wrist measurement (I) and your shoulder to elbow measurement (J).
• From where your shoulder to wrist measurement ends add on another 6 inches/15 cm (this will form the wrinkle).
• Cut this length along the red line.

• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your bicep measurement (K).
• Cut this length along the red line.
• With the fabric still folded cut along the fold.

• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along each long edge, your shoulder to wrist measurement (I) and your shoulder to elbow measurement (J).
• Cut this length along the red line.

• Fold each sleeve in half lengthways.
• On one end of the folded sleeve piece mark a little over half your hand measurement (L).
• From this point cut along the red line to your previously marked elbow point (use your shoulder to elbow measurement from the other end).

Out of the off-cuts of fabric from the sleeves make two squares of fabric about 6 inches/15cm each side.

• Take the remaining fabric, open it out and lay it on a flat surface.
• Cut the piece in half from short end to short end (and in half again if four gussets are required).
• Fold each piece in half.
• With tape-measure and chalk/pencil mark along from the top folded corner diagonally to the bottom cut corner, your waist to ground measurement (F). (You can shorten them later.)
• Cut along the red line.
• Do the same for the remaining gusset pieces.

• Place the front and back pieces together lining up the neck edge.
• Stitch the two pieces together across the shoulders.
• Check the fit of the head hole - enlarging if necessary.

• Take a sleeve piece and open it out and lay it on a flat surface.
• Place a gussett piece at one corner and stitch together.
• Do the same again for the other sleeve piece.

• Open out the front and back body pieces and lay on a flat surface.
• Make sure that the 'right-side' is uppermost.
• Open out a gusset piece and lay the diagonal edge of the triangle on one side of the body, with the base of the triangle level with the base of the dress.
• Stitch a gusset onto each body piece as shown.
• Check all seam edges are on the same side of the fabric!

• Measure the sleeve 'head' (the widest end) and mark half this on each sleeve piece.
• Match the centre point of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the body and make sure 'right-sides' are together.
• Stitch the sleeve piece to the body piece.
• Do the same for the other sleeve on the other side of the body.
• Check all seam edges are on the same side of the fabric!

• Open out the dress and open out all panels.
• Fold the dress in half 'right-sides' together - all seam edges should be on the outside.
• Stitch the dress together along the side edges. This may be a bit tricky at the under-arm gusset as you have to fold it diagonally. When you get to this point, stop the machine and with the needle still in the fabric lift the foot and re-arrange the fabric as you need.