Technique
Number of elements
Looped
Twisted/Plied/Cabled
Braided/Plaited
Knotted
1
Lucet
2
Lucet

Z2S &S2Z (5th-7thc.)
Z2S2Z
Z2S2S
(5th/6thc.)
Z2S3Z
S2Z3S

3
Z3S
Z3S3Z
Z3S2Z

3xZ3S
3xZ4S
3xZ5S

4
Z4S
Z4S2Z
Fonaby 'Whipcord' (6thc)
Skjoldehamn Hood (11thc.)
Crown Sinnet (identical)
5
'Guilloche' (6th & 10th c.)
2-ridge
6
Z6S 'Mucking' Z
'Wakeley' S
Skjoldehamn Sleeve Edging (11thc.)
Skjoldehamn Band (11thc.)
Haddeby (8th-11thc.)
7
Z7S  
8
Z8S
9
'Orsett' Z (7th-8thc.)
12
Skjoldehamn Belt (11thc.)
Skjoldehamn Trouser Drawstring (11thc.)
More
Z&S16-20S2Z

 

Guilloche (5-element)
Several examples:
  10th Durham Coffin silk edging on tablet-woven band St. Cuthbert's textiles and vestments
Wales seam finishing
early - mid 6th Snape, Suffolk Grave 19 (f) hemp S-ply protruding from end of copper-alloy small-long brooch
(fingerloop method)
1. Tie off two loops to a fixed point. Using your fingers send one loop through the other. Drop the weft though the space between the loops. not through the middles of the loops. Repeat until you run out of loop.
(braiding method)
2. Tie off 5 elements to a fixed point. Braid outer 2 elements over 2 into the middle, wrap 5th around inner 2 elements always going the same direction. Repeat.
(tablet-weave method)
3. use 2 card-weaving cards, threaded in opposite directions with 2 strands each. Instead of passing the weft through the shed, it is wrapped around the inner pair

 

Haddeby (Hedeby, Haithabu) - 8th-11th c. - Viking    
Part of an apron-dress discovered in the harbour, had a braided cord sewn over a dart.    
6-element braid.
   
red, yellow, red, yellow, red, yellow. Braided right over 2; left under 2, over 1.    

 

Orsett - late 7th - 8th c. - Saxon    
A narrow band used to tie metal objects together inside a bag that was hidden under the body of 'a lady of some status', buried inside a ring-ditch.    
(possible) 9-element braid    
Braided left under 2, over 2; right under 2 over 2.    

 

Skjoldehamn - 1050-1090CE - Norse/Sami    
Bog body discovered in 1936, near the harbour of Skjold (Skjoldehamn), on the Norwegian island of Andøya.
Hood Sleeve Edging

4-element braid.
2 pairs red and 2 pairs green thread arranged green, red, red, green. Braided - left under 2 reverse over 1; right under 2 reverse over 1.

 

6-element braid (pairs).
Arranged red, green, yellow, yellow, green, red. Braided - left over 2, right over 3.
Belt Trouser Drawstring
12-element braid (pairs of threads).
Red. Braided - right over 3 under 2, left over 4 under 2.
12-element braid (each element 3 threads)
Arranged yellow, red, yellow, yellow, red, yellow, yellow, red, yellow, yellow, red, yellow. Braided - right over 3 under 2, left over 3 under 3.
Band

6-element braid.
Arranged yellow, yellow, red, red, yellow, yellow. Braided -

 

Fonaby 'Whipcord'
early Saxon Springfield Lyons, Chelmsford, Essex Grave 4741 (f) mineralised cord S-ply (suspension cord for one/two perforated Roman coins)
early Saxon - 6th Fonaby, Lincolnshire Grave 31 (f) fragment 3cm long associated with cu/a annular brooch; thread slight z-spin used in threes; circumference 8mm. (looks to me, from the diagram, like a simple 4 element round braid)
Snape, Suffolk Grave 8 (f) mineralised cord S-ply; attached to another fabric (zz 2/2 twill) by thread

 

Z2S2Z    
Castle-Dyke South - CS90 164, plant-fibre, beads worn as festoon between brooches, l 6th/7th, cu/a annular brooch    
West Heslerton, Grave 177, 1mm diam., 5th/6th cu/a beads    

 

Z2S2S
  5th/6th West Heslerton, N. Yorks Grave 28 (f) mineralised cord glass bead strung on cabled cord

 

Z2S (modern 2-ply yarn)
many examples:
  5th/6th West Heslerton, N. Yorks Grave 86 (f) wool fringe associated with copper-alloy annular brooch
  Grave 113 (f 20y) flax/hemp cords Cylinders stuffed w/ tabby & threaded on cord (copper-alloy bucket bead)
  Grave 147 (f) wool part of tablet-weave on copper-alloy annular brooch
  Grave 152 (f) wool Nine or ten parallel cords, one knotted. Seem to be binding chatelaine items together. (copper-alloy girdle-hanger and iron latch-lifter)
  6th Uncleby (KellyThorpe), E. Yorks Grave 29 very fine wool small roll thread, madder, copper-alloy workbox
  mid 5th-mid 6th Market Lavington, WIlts Grave 4 (f) linen, 1.5mm diam Poss a fringe, on back of copper-alloy disc brooch at neck
  early - mid 7th Sutton Hoo, Suffolk Mound 17 flax/hemp cord Binding iron & wood scabbard mouth. Very worn
  late 5th - 6th Hollow Banks, Scorton, N. Yorks Grave 30 (f) flax/hemp cord 1.5mm along cutting edge of iron knife
  6th Grave 98 (f) mineralised cord 0.8mm One of five different repair cords on copper-alloy cruciform brooches, AD and AE, with detached knobs, AA and AC.
early - mid 6th Buckland, Dover, Kent Grave 347 (j 14-16) flax/hemp cord 0.6mm diam Three cords around pin hinge on silver-gilt openwork disc brooch 440e at left shoulder. Probably bead-string for the 41 beads at the neck and upper chest.
early - mid 7th Grave 413 (f 22-27y) 8 mineralised cords Fringe underneath iron rods between thighs. Outside linen tabby of gown. Possibly the fringe on the end of a girdle or sash.
7th Castledyke South, Barton on Humber, Lincs. SC90 126 (j m) flax/hemp tablet-weave braid on front edge of ?wrap-over jacket/coat (associated with iron buckle)

 

S2Z    
West Heslerton - Grave 177, plant-fibre, 5th/6th, cu/a annular brooch    
     

 

Z3S (modern 3-ply yarn)    
West Heslerton - Grave 68, beads worn as festoon between brooches, 5th/6th, cu/a annular brooch    
West Heslerton, Grave 141, 2mm diam., Beads between undergown & ?cloak, 1509 brooch annular cu/a AD
1510 strip fe AD
1511 bead amber AD, 5th/6th
   

 

Z&S16-20S2Z    
Galley Hills, Banstead Down - Barrow burial, late 7th/8th, 8mm diam, String under rim, prob for tying cloth over cu/a bowl    
     

 

Z4S (modern 4-ply yarn)    
Westgarth Gardens - Grave 16, sm-lng brooch    
West Heslerton - Grave 107, String of beads worn as festoon between brooches, cu/a annular brooch, 5th/6th    

 

Definitions:
Modern Knitting Wool
Most modern knitting wool has already been plied (Z3S for example), so technically you are making cabled cord when you use these to demonstrate plying!

Plyed Cord

Plyed cord is where two or more elements are plied or twisted together. This cord can be described in letters and numbers. Thread is spun in a particular direction either Z (clockwise) or S (anti-clockwise). The first letter indicates the spin direction of the thread. The number then tells you how many elements, and the final letter is the plying direction. So Z2S is 2 Z-spun elements plied S.
Cabled Cord
Cabled cord is where two or more plied cords and further plied or twisted together. So Z4S2Z means ply 4 Z elements in the S direction twice, then ply these 2 cords together in the Z direction. (I'm assuming this is the right explanantion, because I haven't been able to verify it anywhere!)

 

© Rosie Wilkin 2011
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