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Period
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Comments |
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5th & 6th Century
(400-599AD) |
Narrow scarf or rectangle of fabric (wool/linen) worn over the head; could be fringed or have a tablet-woven border; rarely coloured. |
|
7th-9th
Century
(600-899AD) |
Larger scarves worn wrapped around the head, sometimes with hair showing at forehead/temple; optional head-band worn either underneath or over the top to secure scarf, could be tablet-woven/fabric/leather; optional cap worn to secure hair; copper alloy pins sometimes used to secure scarf; wool/linen; some simple embroidery in silk thread. |
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10th/11th
Century |
Scarves larger still and wound round head, neck and shoulders; head-band more elaborate for wealthier people (embroidered with gold thread); optional cap and pins still worn; wool/linen/silk used. |
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1066-1154AD
|
Large
veils still wound round head and neck. Hair plaited and sometimes visible; small veils; head-bands now becoming more solid and turning into circlets. |
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1170
|
Barbette - chin band brought over by Eleanor of Acquitaine wife of Henry II (king 1154-89); worn with veil & circlet |
|
1190
|
Wimpel - a covering for the neck and chin worn til 1390 with veil & circlet |
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1216-72
|
Henry III 'fillet' - stiffened band worn over barbette 1½ to 4 inches deep. Deep ones had the top covered; young girls wore the barbette & fillet with their hair loose, otherwise it was bunned or plaited and coiled up |
|
1220
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Toque developed - very similar to 'fillet' above |
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1250
|
Crespine/Crespinette - hair net or 'caul' worn til 1500 with fillet & barbette |
|
1272
|
open
hood liripipe on hoods |
|
1290
|
plaited coils over
the ears til 1327 |
|
1300
|
fillet & barbette
narrower |
|
1327
|
where a hooded cape is worn - women below a certain rank allowed only hoods furred with lambskin or rabbit skin, those who wore hoods with furred capes might have them of any fur they thought proper |
|
1350
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vertical
plaits on either side of face sometimes with fillet padded rolls worn with veil (turban) |
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1355
|
prostitutes should were hoods 'reyed or striped of divers colours, no fur, with their garments reversed or turned the side outward' |
|
1370
|
cylindrical
'cauls' with fillet & veil pinched wimple covering chin - 'barbe' or 'beard' worn with veil by widows and nuns |
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1370-1400
|
turban head-dress |
|
1370-1500
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semi-circular ruffled veil |
|
1390
|
wimple out of fashion |
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1154-1400
|
veil & cap |
|
1390
|
(reticulated)
cauls attached to circlet/coronet above the ears moving to cover the ears metal mesh covers the whole head tightly coiled plaits in cauls worn with veil or padded roll on top |
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1413-22
|
(horned)
shoulder-width cauls with veil over supported on upward tilting wires cauls start to move vertical coronets shaped to fit between the horns with veil underneath horns become structural and padded side cauls out of fashion by 1422 still metal mesh covered |
|
1430
(Lancaster) |
(heart-shaped)
horns rise to vertical still worn with veil or padded roll shaped to fit edges |
|
1430
(York) |
(henin) horns become
joined - cone shaped Young girls still wore their hair loose. If a head-dress was worn the forehead was plucked |
|
1453
|
(turban)
worn throughout 15th century possibly Turkish influenced (constantinople) |
|
1461-1500
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(butterfly) henin with veil supported on wires |
|
1470
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black band across front of henin extending to shoulders |
Sources:
Women's Headdress and Hairstyles - Georgine de Courtais
Cloth and Clothing in Early Anglo-Saxon England - Penelope Walton Rogers
Historical Costumes of England - N. Bradfield
| © Rosie Wilkin 2008 |