Period
Fabric
Important Dates
Comment
500-799

Wool in 2x1 twill, tabby weave, 2x2 twill, diamond and broken diamond twill
Tabby weave linen

Loosely woven so that the threads are visible
Thick and heavy wool for cloaks was napped
600-1000
All previous fabrics
Imported silk and silk garments for Royalty and the Church
975

King Edgar gives silk to King Kenneth

10th century
Small silk caps worn by women in Anglo-Scandinavian York
1066-1100

All previous fabrics
Russet - a coarse homespun woollen cloth of red-brown or grey colour
Small amount of woven/embroidered silk

Fine and coarse weights
1066
Edward the Confessor shrouded in Byzantine Damask silk
1100-54
Brought by soldiers returning from the First Crusade (1131-50):-
Silk, Gauze, Damask, Woven gold
1150
Cloths becoming finer

Soft very fine wool
All previous fabrics

 
1154-99
Small short-haired pelts cut into formal shapes and sewn together used as linings
1190
Fine and soft, and coarse weights
Worsted cloth of scarlet wool
All previous fabrics
1199-1272

Canvas
All previous fabrics

 
Silk of various weights
Woven and printed patterned textiles
1210
Small amount of brocade and silk
More garments lined with fur
Linings of contrastingly coloured tone
1260
1272-1307
All previous fabrics
Broadcloth
1290
Broadcloth imported from the Low Countries
Fustian - velvet like
1300
 
Serge
1303
Velvet
1303
used in church/worn by royalty
1307-27
Gold/silver tissue
Taffeta
Velvet
All previous fabrics
1320
Velvet mentioned in the Wardrobe Accounts of King Edward
1327-77
All previous fabrics
Green Flemish cloth
Siskin
Grey Musterdevilliers from Normandy
1330
Broadcloth woven in England
Satin
1350
 
Silk
1360
Flannel and Multi-coloured worsted
1371
1377-99
Frieze - a thick, heavy wool
All previous fabrics
   
1399-1413
All previous fabrics    
1413-22
Lawn
1415
 
Sturdy, rich cloths
Fur trim/lining less evident
All previous fabrics
 
1422-61
Damask from Holland
1423
 

Heavy and substantial cloths
All previous fabrics

1461-85
Figured Satin
All previous fabrics
 

 

Sources:
Period Costume for Stage and Screen - Jean Hunnisett
Historical Costumes of England 1066-1968 - Nancy Bradfield
The Medieval Tailor's Assistant - Sarah Thursfield
The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930 - Margot Hamilton Hill & Peter A Bucknall

 

© Rosie Wilkin 2003
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